Indian Traditional Jewellery- History, Significance, and Modernity

Indian traditional jewellery is something more than just an embellishment- a living embodiment of history, heritage, culture, and artistic excellence. For over the last few centuries, traditional Indian jewellery has symbolised spirituality, prosperity, emotional attachments, and social status. Throughout the country, numerous jewellery cultures, and habits have been developed since then, making Indian traditional jewellery one of the most vibrant and diverse jewellery traditions of the world.

Whether it is intricately designed necklaces or temple-influenced gold jewellery, the rich culture of the Indian subcontinent has been inspiring generations till today. Designs, mechanisms, and almost everything- today, technologies are incomplete without those that have been achieved or passed through generations. Even today, there are some royal families who still hold the then traditional jewellery items from the time of Mughals, or other Indian kings and queens.

In this article, we will explore every aspect of Indian traditional jewellery, its variations, significance, and the reason behind its being eternal.

What is Indian Traditional Jewellery?

Jewellery pieces that are deeply rooted with the erstwhile rich Indian culture, rituals, and historical traditions, are mostly marked as the traditional jewellery of India. Typically, these pieces and their karigari have been passed through generations of the karigars or artisans, where gold has been believed as the most prominent and the most auspicious metal. Precious and semi-precious gemstones such as Ruby, Emerald, Sapphires, etc. were quite common in the traditional jewellery form. 

Nowadays, traditional jewellery is mostly worn in high occasions like weddings, or other such grand celebrations. Each of such jewellery pieces carry an emblem, representing rituals, cultures, prosperity, and obviously the queen inside you.

History & Evolution Indian Traditional Jewellery

Dating back over 5000 years, several archeological evidence shows prominent usage of beads made of gold and silver, pearls, gemstones at that period. Evidence also clears that proper usage was traced even in the era of Indus Valley Civilisation. The following are those periods when different types and designs appeared.

During the Vedic Period, the usage or purchase of jewellery signified wealth, prosperity, divine protection, and social uplifting, while in Maurya & Gupta Dynasty, jewellery making procedures evolved a lot. Craftsmanship got a complete revamp during these periods, alongside people getting introduced with gemstone jewellery and its setting. Another major change came during the Mughal Era, when the Polki and Kundan jewellery came under the limelight with their exclusive crafting process like Jadau setting, Meenakari, etc.. At last in the Colonial Period, a grand fusion of Indian designs, and karigari with the European aesthetics changed the complete system. 

• Over time, the Indian traditional jewellery got richer, along with designs, mechanisms, and obviously manufacturing.

Several Popular Traditional Jewellery Types

Not everything people wore in ancient times is still visible today, but some of them came out extremely beautiful, and thus people still embrace these following types of jewellery with ultimate grace.

1. Polki Jewellery: Polki is the rawest and most unprocessed form of natural diamonds. It still has a wide use as bridal or wedding jewellery for its organic shimmer and timeless elegance.
2. Kundan Jewellery: Kundan jewellery actually originated in Rajasthan, and gained fame during the Mughal Era. The heavy and gorgeous look, broad appearance of polki jewellery feels really majestic.
3. Temple Jewellery: Featuring motifs of innumerable deities, flowers, peacock, and other divine symbols, this type of jewellery mostly mirrors the sacred side of the South Indian lifestyle. Till date, this is one of the most famous types of Indian jewellery round the globe.
4. Jadau Jewellery: Derived from the Mughal cultures, Jadau jewellery is probably the most meticulous crafting so far, due to its labour-intensive setting mechanism, where diamonds, and gemstones are studded on gold without any prong or adhesive. It is still popular with bridal attires, especially with sarees. 
5. Meenakari Jewellery: Meenakari is the process of enamelling the gold surfaces of a jewellery with vibrant colours, often seen on the backside of the kundan jewellery, adding an extra bit of visual richness, and artistic aesthetics.

Indian Traditional Jewellery by Regions

Gold and diamonds are everywhere the same, but cultures, traditions, and choices differ from one region to other, making the availability high or low. We will discuss here some prominent regional jewellery patterns witnessed throughout the sub-continent.

North: the jewellery cultures of Northern Indian states are mostly influenced from the Mughals, making the Kundan, Polki, and Jadau jewellery dominate the bridal. These are often paired with some designer necklaces, chandbalis, or matha pattis. 

East: East means Bengal, and the Bengali artisanship is famous worldwide for its intricate filigree works, especially 22K gold jewellery. Raanihaar, Tikli, Jhumkis, Bala(Churi or Kada or Heavy bangles). Nature-inspired motifs and lightweight jewellery manufacturing are some of the key factors of Bengali traditional jewellery.

South: South Indian jewellery patterns mostly follow divine symbols, along with heavyweight usage of gold. Some of the signature pieces are Vaddanam or waist belts, Kasu malas, Haarams, etc for its exceptional beauty and eternal excellence.

West: Rajasthan and Gujarat are famous for their intense meenakari jewellery and gemstones. Layered kundan necklaces, Nath(nose rings), etc. are some of the most vibrant pieces of western India’s traditional jewellery pieces.

The Role of Karigars(artisans) in Preserving the Tradition

Traditional jewellery pieces are a testament to time and the heritage of how jewellery items were manufactured back then, with extreme care and perfection. There is a big role of karigars in keeping the old techniques alive, as well as the whole procedure of its manufacturing. Now, there are computerised designing and micro-setting mechanisms which, though they enable Karigars to ease up the manufacturing process, are not enough to take over the imperiality of the Indian traditional jewellery. 

No matter how many technologies come into the jewellery marketplace, each piece of traditional jewellery still connects people to the rich and regal past of India, and its antique aesthetics.

Cultural Significances of Indian Traditional Jewellery

Indian traditional jewellery has been in trend since last few centuries and has been evolving with time. There are several significant factors that drive people to purchase traditional jewellery pieces still today.

1. Cultural Significance: Traditional jewellery is not only an embellishment, but it is also an emblem of the rich culture of India, and its every aspect. Divine motifs in this kind of jewellery are also believed to protect the wearer.
2. Marriage & Traditional jewellery: Bridal jewellery is something that is manufactured once in a lifetime, it should carry the essence that reflects your marital status, family heritage, and blessings.
3. Auspicious Jewellery: In an Indian household, gold is the symbol of Goddess Lakshmi, and the most auspicious thing to buy. This value genuinely increases when there are already motifs of gods and goddesses.

Modern Interpretations in Traditional Jewellery

Over the years, Indian traditional jewellery evolved with contemporary styles, but maintaining the heritage culture intact. The same culture, classic motifs, divine charms, but the pieces are now becoming lighter to maintain the balance with the constantly increasing price of gold. 

Another thing that is also creating a hype is Fusion jewellery, allowing people to wear the regal traditions, in combination with the minimal elegance, regardless of weddings or festivals.

Reasons behind the Timelessness

1. Several factors are there that play a key role in making the traditional jewellery of India a timeless excellence. 
2. Excellent craftsmanship
3. Rich cultural & emotional connection
4. Jewellery items that are worth investing in
5. Adaptable to modern fashion trends
6. Spiritual and cultural importance

Indian traditional jewellery was always in trend and will always be high in style, no matter how much high jewellery approaches the market. Styles may have gone old enough, but there will always be such women who will find and discover extremely aesthetic and regal pieces of traditional jewellery and will adorn them with pride.